Cinque Terre Update

Vernazza - February 2012

Last week I has a chance to visit both Vernazza and Monterosso, two of the villages deeply affected by the floods and landslides of last October. It was my first time since the tragedy happened. I had waited a while, feeling a profound sense of not wanting to disturb the locals and their process of rebuilding. Three and half months has passed and with the hope that both were “on their way”, I decided it was time.

Cleaning Up Vernazza

First stop, Vernazza. Just getting off the train you could see loads of construction in both directions, heading up toward the hinterland where once stood the kids’ park was a mountain of rumble and tents used by the workers. To the other side, leading down to the village’s main street, the entire middle of the road had been carved up to restructure the underground canal, which on October 25 had become a rushing river in which even trucks had been swept away and into the sea.

Vernazza's Piazza & Harbor

The amount of construction and work going on is amazing. These people are clearly determined to have the village up and running as quickly as possible. Still, it is obvious there is a whole to do before that can happen. Water and electricity have been restored, but gas is by tank at least for another couple of months. Necessary items are being brought in by train or boat as the road leading into town is still unaccessible. The piazza and beach have a ways to go. Yet, if you watched any of the short films showing of that fateful day, you would be pleasantly surprised by how much has been accomplished in a place so remote.

Painted Doors of Hope

Monterosso in February

Monterosso, for its “fortuna” seems to be on its way to a quicker recovery. Fegina, the new town, where the train station is, seems to be nearly 100% in tact (and still houses many residents from the old village). Once you cross through the tunnel separating the the old from the new, you begin to see the remnants of mother nature’s wrath, but also lots and lots of orangish-red netting. This once was a very ugly sign to me, but in the case of Monterosso, these construction “screens” proved to be a welcome sight.

Via Rome in Monterosso

Via Roma (for those who watched the videos will remember this being the street where the water was rushing at unbelievable speed and as high as the second floor!), has been completely dug up and the canal running under it has been reinforced with new concrete walls and cleaned of any debris. It’s only a matter of weeks before they will cover the street once again, bringing some normality to the old village. Some stores and a few restaurants have reopened as well. All a good sign!

Monterosso Open for Business!

We’re 6 weeks away from Easter, which unofficially marks the beginning of the “season”. It looks promising that Monterosso will be able to manage a good amount of tourism by this time. Vernazza is probably going to need a bit more, but knowing the determination of the locals, they will do their best to welcome visitors as soon as possible.

There are several good web sites created by locals of both Vernazza and Monterosso which can provide you with regular updates and information on the progress, as well as a safe place to donate to the cause:

www.rebuildmonterosso.com
www.savevernazza.com

Also, a quick reminder: Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia were not touched by the storm of October 25 and will be 100% open for business this year!