Bella Vita in Liguria - Tales and Tastes from the Italian Riviera

Ferragosto Dinner: Seppie & Fagioli

I’m no gourmet and nor try to be. I keep it real simple and it seems to work, or so that’s what my husband tells me! Here’s what I made for dinner on Ferragosto:

1 chilo of cleaned seppia (cuttlefish)*

400 grams of cannellini beans

200 grams of borloti beans (like pinto beans)

A small handful of rosemary

1/2 Tropea onion (a red onion will do)

1 garlic clove

salt to taste

peperoncino (pepper flakes) to tastes

1/2 of wine

2 tablespoons of olive oil

Some of you are thinking what the heck is seppia? Seppia is cuttlefish, used often on the NE coast of the states and served widely through out the Med. It’s very similar to calamari and can actually be substituted with calamari if you can find seppia (or are not feeling quite so adventurous).

Mince finely the rosemary, onion and garlic and add to a pan.

Drain the beans. (Now, I understand some of you may prefer soaking and boiling your own beans, but for those here in Italy, I think the ones you buy in the can at the Coop supermarket are darn good and don’t require all that extra time.)

Heat the pan with the rosemary mixture and the olive oil for about 2 minutes and then add the fish. Turn the fish until is well coated and then let sizzle for a few minutes, then turn again. Do this for about 6-7 minutes until the seppie is well cooked (you can tell because it becomes opaque white). Then add the beans, the half a glass of white wine, salt and peperoncino and let cook for another 2 minutes, covered.

And that is it. What you’ve got is a super simple and delicious main course perfect for a nice summer night. Oh, and don’t forget a nice bottle of rosato to go with it.

BUON APPETITO!

Tantalizing Tellaro

Quite possibly the most hidden gem of the Italian Riviera, Tellaro is quintessential seaside Italy at its best. Once a fortified village built on the rocks only meters up from the sea, this borgo (one of Italy’s finest) is now a beautiful summer escape more frequented by Italians and Northern Europeans.

I am quasi-embarrassed to say that I had not been to Tellaro in a couple of years, but after having dinner over that way with clients last night, I decided it was time to go back (with Lucy in tow) for a morning passegiata and caffè. And boy was I happy I did.

The colorful buildings and narrow alleyways leading to tiny terraces over the sea, add to the appeal and charm of this 500-year old village. You can’t help but make comparison with the villages of Le Cinque Terre, but there are big differences: less people, a very laid-back pace, and frankly, much better taken care of.

The Legend of Tellaro

Supposedly back in the 17th century, there was only a fortress where Tellaro now stands which served to protect another village, Barbazzano, a bit more inland from the sea from Saracen pirates who came to steal its famous and lucrative olive oil. The fortress was built on a very rugged coastline so disembarking was difficult and the bell tower of the church was used as an alarm in case of invasion. One stormy night the Saracens managed to sneak onto land as the village slept peacefully (including the man who was supposed to be on the lookout!). But somehow, or someone or some THING, rang the church bell, the village awoke and rushed to the defense of their precious land, beating the Saracens before they could reach the village. Legend has it that some of the townspeople saw a big octopus which has emerged from the sea and held fast to the rope of the bell awakening the whole village! From that day forward, the octopus, known as Tellarsi, symbolizes the village of Tellaro.

Nearby, there are fabulous coves for sunning and swimming plus several very good restaurants which I can highly recommend. Lerici is only a 10 minute drive and in the summer, buses and train trolley run regularly between the two villages.

Accommodations

Eco del Mare – high-end, expensive beach bungalows on a private beach. A must if you don’t mind breaking the bank.

Locanda Miranda – a cozy, 8-room B&B with a one-star Michelin restaurant.

Hotel Il Nido – A valid, 3-star hotel on the sea.

Food Drink & Fun

Locanda Miranda – Excellent food and not the usual Michelin star prices.

Gambero Nero – abundance of delicious food (don’t miss the never ending antipasto of the house)

Osteria La Caletta (Via Fiascherino, 100 Tel: 0187964000) – nice osteria serving a good assortment of pastas and fresh fish in a friendly atmosphere

Il Figoli – Music bar and enoteca in the main piazza

If you happen to be in the area this coming weekend (August 12-14), there is the annual “Sagra di Polpo” (octopus festival) with live music, a parade and of course all the octopus you can eat! And if you happen to making a trip this way soon, please put Tellaro on your list of must do and see’s. Just like me, you won’t be disappointed…

Beach Club Basics of Lerici

Between too much work and the poopy weather, I haven’t been very inspired to write as of lately. It’s amazing how much the weather affects me! Usually this time of year I am full of observances and funny anecdotes (or so I like to think!), but with the past two weeks of fall temperatures (and rain), had me in a bit of a lull. So, waking up this morning to summer weather was really a treat!

Lucy and I made our way down into the village early with camera in tow to finally get in some good shots of the local beach clubs. I figured after my blog about the downside of July and my insistence of paying for a beach club, I ought to back it up with some information on those here in Lerici.

At the public beach, Venere Azzura, there are also two beach clubs at each end of the cove. While in my opinion, you are still pretty packed in, you do have your own chair and they are less expensive than the other beach clubs (about €8 for a lounge char and €4 for a chair).

There is also a small Beach Club at San Terenzo, but you are basically smashed in with the public beach so I would not consider paying for this!

To the south you have Locanda del Lido, one of the two best in town. Here you have a fine sand beach, a decent amount of space between rows of umbrellas and lovely water in which you can walk out a good 100 meters and still be only up to your waist. They have a couple of snacks bars serving decent food as well. Be prepared for the price though at about €32 for entrance, two lounge chairs and an umbrella.

Toward San Terenzo you will find Colombo Beach Club, recently refurbished with a fabulous jetty and a (not so deserved) 4-star hotel right on the sea. Here there is only a small patch of sand. The rest is terraced stone and the exclusive wood jetty. NOTE: The hotel itself is a fabulous location and you would think at over €200/night you would have a “beachy” chic room, but no. The rooms leave lots of to be desired with modular, wood furniture and ugly decor and the restaurant is so-so with astronoimcal prices.

But back to the beach club which is really nice. Again, not an inexpensive place at €38 for entrance, two lounge chairs and an umbrella on the terrace and €40 for the same on the jetty; yet the space and ambience, gorgeous water and constant breeze makes this the other best of Lerici.

There are also several nice beaches, public and private, to the south of Lerici heading to Tellaro, including the uber-chic Eco del Mare (bit more n that another time!). You can also rent small dinghy boats in town that can fit up to 6 people and are fun for putting around the coves versus feeling like a sardine!

In any case, you are better off arriving before 10AM on a weekday and more like 9AM on the weekend in order to nab a good spot. If driving, you can park at the Vallata parking lot which is conveniently located smack between the two villages of Lerici and San Terenzo (about €9 for the day). Again, get there early!

Anyway, welcome back summer!

Hope you stick around for a while…