Bella Vita in Liguria - Tales and Tastes from the Italian Riviera

Ligurian Cuisine: Gastronomic Delights of the Italian Riviera…

Ligurian cuisine might surprise you. Being along the Mediterranean coastline, seafood is of course an essential part of this region gastronomy, but it is also carefully mixed with a generous use of herbs and vegetables, and a few non-fish dishes that might surprise you.

We start with the obvious…fish, fish and more fish. It dominant in dishes from soups to salads, pasta to main dishes. Seafood antipasti are served in abundance at most Ligurian restaurants and typically include . These marinated anchovies from Monterosso, cozze ripiene (mussel shells stuffed with minced mussel meat, prosciutto, Parmesan, herbs, and bread crumbs), and sopressato di polpo (flattened octopus in olive oil and lemon sauce) and possibly a small platter of fritto.

You will also find plenty of fish within Ligurian past dishes such as spaghetti allo scoglio, an olive oil, tomato, and white wine–based sauce containing an assortment of local frutti di mare (clams, mussels) plus shrimp and cuttlefish.

Basil is king along the Italian Riviera (and the name literally derives from the Greek word basileus, meaning “king”!). Genova is considered the birthplace of pesto, the classic, basil-rich pasta sauce (along with local pine nuts and 1 walnut for extra flavor!). It is usually served with trenette (similar to spaghetti) or the slightly sweet testaroli (a flat pasta made from chestnut flour), or Yyou can also find pansotti (triangular pockets of pasta filled with a cheese with trofie (doughy, short pasta twists). The other famous “non-fish” pasta sauce is “salsa di noci”, a rich mixture of garlic, walnuts, and cream that, as with pesto, is ideally pounded with a mortar and pestle.

In my biased opinion, fish is the best bet for a second course: the classic preparation is a whole grilled or baked whitefish—branzino (sea bass) and orata (dorado) are good choices, served with olives, potatoes, Ligurian spices, and a drizzle of olive oil.

A popular meat dish is “Cima alla Genovese”, a veal roll stuffed with a mixture of eggs and vegetables, served as a cold cut. Quite delicious although a bit strange looking. Another delicacy of the region is Rabbit, slightly more gamey and defintely more flavorful than chicken, it is often “long sauteed” in a covered pot filled with tomatoes, olives, garlic, olive oil, white wine and Ligurian herbs.

We can’t forget to fabulous “carb” dishes that define, or at minimum dully compliment Liguria food: Focaccia and Farinata. The first is well-known, delectable bread made of flour, water, olive oil and in most cases, a potato. Focaccia can be served “vuota” (empty) as a snack, or perfect with your morning cappuccino, or “farcite”, filled or topped with salami, prosciutto, cheese, onions or pesto. It’s delicious any way! Then there is the local Spezia dish which has become a stable throughout the region, fabulous farinata. Made simply of chick-pea flour, water, olive oil and salt, you would think this is an easy dish to master. But the true art of making farinata lies in its oven, HOT HOT HOT. Being that it is made just like a pizza, there is no better way than by wood-burning oven. Farinata can be served alone or farcite with stracchino cheese or onions.

There is also (last but not least!), Panigacci, a real treat of the region. Well, I should say, half of the region. Panigacci from the Lunigiana area, the valley extending inland along the border between Liguria and Tuscany where the nomads traveled north to south. Both claim its “birthplace”. Balls of dough are laid in a small, terra-cotta dishes known as testine and stacked one on top of the other in order to flatten the dough. Then they are placed over hot coals (or in a pizza oven), and what emerges is flat, firm, almost pita-like bread. Panigacci are usually served with stracchino cheese (similar to cream cheese), pesto, or nut sauce and cold cuts…and is one of my all-time favorite dishes!

So, as you can see, there is a bit of diversity in the cuisine of the region I call home. It’s an opportunity to eat “semi-light” and quite healthy in a country mostly know for its hearty, think sauces and meat dishes. Don’t think it’s all fish here in Liguria, but consider broadening your gastronomic horizons to try the local dishes…you won’t be disappointed!

If this post makes your mouth water, you might want to consider our fabulous week long Hosted Tour called “Walks, Wine and Wonders of the Italian Riviera” or a customized, condensed version for your next trip to Italy…

BUON APPETITO!